A GENERAL DELINEATION OF THE FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER 1807

The mourning for the respected and venerable Duke of Brunswick, though principally designed for the Court, was, on its first commencement, a costume very generally adopted by the multitude; and our public places in consequence exhibited an aspect of gloom and solemnity. The cloud has, however, begun to disperse; and the rainbow tints of fashion and variety again call forth our observation, and attract us more immediately to admire those graces they are destined to illuminate.

The fawn-coloured pelisse, and mantle of kerseymere velvet, or sarsnet in diverse forms, have resumed their popularity; nor do we recollect ever to have seen a colour so justly entitled to public suffrage; it is unobtrusively elegant, and attracts by its simplicity. The Russian mantle, given in our last, is much in request; also the plain kerseymere coat, trimmed down the front, round the bottom, collar and cuffs, with Trafalgar trimming of the same colour; and is worn with a cottage bonnet, or yeoman hat, to correspond. The velvet pelisse, flowing open as a robe, and the Cardinal coat as minutely described in our last Number, are selected by the most tasteful females; but the most novel of this species of habiliment is the Roman mantle It is composed of a long width of kerseymere, and is trimmed quite round, with a fur of the leopard’s skin. It is cut in the most fanciful form; wrapping round the figure in front and falling in two points towards the left side and behind, from which points are suspended tassels the colour of the mantle which confine it also on the neck, it having no cape. A plain hat, of the same materials as the mantle, is usually worn with it. It has a flat brim, which is gently turned up towards the left side, and lined with leopard’s skin. A silk chord round the crown, finished with full floss tassels in front is its only ornament. The effect of this costume on an elegant figure is beyond description attractive and splendid; but to be adopted with consistency requires the accompaniment of a carriage. We have observed a new and useful ornament in the style of a tippet which we think worthy of description. It is composed of velvet or twill sarsnet, cut in the form of a scarf, with sharp rounded ends, reaching within a quarter of a yard of the feet. The back and shoulders are cut in the form of a coachman’s cape, or in the shape of a tippet The scarf is put in full on the shoulder, and is usually lined throughout with a coloured sarsnet agreeably contrasted with the outside; and is invariably trimmed with skin, either blue fox, squirrel, or leopard. It is often worn with a plain pelisse of the same material; but is more generally adopted as a shelter from partial air, sometimes experienced at the theatres &c., and in this capacity it may be considered as combining utility with grace, and taste with convenience. The long scarf composed of mohair or shawl muslin, in imitation, is a most distinguishing ornament. Its colours are generally salmon, cream-colour, orange and fawn. It has a rich border, happily contrasted with the ground and on the latter are large variegated spots where the gold-coloured silk is chiefly predominant.

These scarfs are nearly four yards long; and are worn in various directions, forming a most elegant drapery over a plain white dress. The style most generally adopted by our women of fashion, is throwing it negligently over the left shoulder, letting it fall nearly to the feet; the other end is passed under the adverse arm; and confined in a sort of festooned drapery, by the natural and unstudied security given by the left hand. Sometimes this end is left to flow loosely behind, mingling with, or forming the train of the dress.

We do not discover much alteration in the general style of gowns since our last. The backs continue to be cut low, though not quite so much in the extreme, as a few weeks back. The frock bosom, and square front still prevail; but are not considered so new as that formed of full reversed gathers, dividend in the centre with footing-lace, or satin; and trimmed on the top with chenille plaited net or narrow fringe of silver, &c. Sleeves are for the most part in the opposite extreme, either very high and full, with a plaiting of net, fall of lace or bordering to correspond with the dress; at others they are formed of lace, or richly embroidered, and plainly extended over white satin. The coloured muslin or shawl dresses are invariably worn over white sarsnet or satin; and the bosoms and sleeves of these vestments are made quite plain; and either trimmed with fur, or swansdown; or embroidered in a rich pattern of gold colour. We have seen a dress of Italian crape worn over a pale pink satin slip ornamented with a border of white bugles in vandyke at the bottom; the bosom and sleeves quite plain, but thickly studded with single bugles; and a high and full tiara to correspond.

A dress of white Italian gauze, with a border and drapery of hoops in foil, has attracted our observation by its novel elegance. White velvet spencers, flowing open from the shoulders in front, and finished with a gold cord and tassel, or band and clasp, are much worn with round train dresses. They have a compact and graceful appearance. The backs of these spensers are cut like the gowns, and have a short but full Roman sleeve, made high on the shoulder, to meet a plain one, formed of lace or needlework.

The fronts of most dress gowns are formed so high, that delicacy asks no other shade for the bosom: yet we venture to recommend to the full forms the round tucker of net or muslin, edged with a border of needlework

We have recently witnessed a new style of wearing the half neckerchief: it was adopted by a female celebrated for beauty, fashion, and invention; who is somewhat embonpoint. The ends were crossed full on the lower part of the neck behind, so as to relieve the extreme lowness of the back, and to form a light contrast to the dress; it was then folded low on the shoulder, and crossed plain over the bosom in a wrap form, meeting on the opposite side of the robe, and terminating at the corner of the bosom with an emerald brooch. This simple style of shading the bust is particularly becoming, and gives a chaste finishing to the tout ensemble.

The hanging sleeve frock, with biased front, has lately been introduced amongst very young women; and is invariably worn over white or coloured satin slips. The waists however, being much shorter, and the hanging sleeve more tastefully formed, than that of our ancestors, divests it of all formality, and leaves it a costume by no means ungraceful. The simple round train dress of India or Moravian muslin, if formed agreeable to the fashionable standard, and aided by tasteful and well-chosen ornaments, must ever be considered unobstrusively elegant, and will attract by its neat ness, rather than dazzle by its splendour.

The Tekeli Cap, and Alexina Helmet, has lately been selected by a few fashionables who are distinguished for tasteful singularity and whose beauty and rank entitle them to take those liberties of invention and whim, which do not infringe on the lows of modesty. The above-mentioned ornaments are an improvement on those which are worn by the hero Tekeli and his no less heroic consort, in the celebrated Melo-drama of The Siege of Montgutz.

The hair is still much compressed. The Madona front is sometimes seen, with loose curls flowing irregularly over it; others braid the whole of the hind hair, and fasten it tight with a comb, bringing it across the head in full braids, so as to bind the left temple, and expose the ear; while on the other, are small flat curls. The tiara of raised fret-work in silver, is a very elegant ornament. The pearl crescent, also bandeaus of diamonds, &c., are much seen in front of the hair; but no brooches are worn on the head; and the veil, now banished from the toilette, has retired within the cloister. The half kerchief but more than five-eights square, of fawn-colour or morone muslin, embroidered richly in white or gold coloured silk, is fancifully placed at the back of the head with a coronet band, or other ornament in front, and forms a most distinguished head-dress.

Hats and bonnets are chiefly made of kerseymere, velvet, or sarsnet, to correspond with the mantle or palisse with which they are worn. Broad black lace plaited full on the forehead, and put plain on the sides, forming the peak of the bonnet with the fur of divers animals; Trafalgar trimming and swansdown are their only fashionable ornaments.

The cap a-la-rustique, and the simple quartered cap of patent net over white or coloured satin; a broad lace net, plaited across the crown, and continued under the chin, without any other embellishment, are much in esteem, and give to the morning dress a consistency and simplicity which is very attractive. These dresses are sometimes made very high round the throat, and finished with vandyke or plain frill a-la-Queen Elizabeth, on the double trimming a-la-corkscrew; but those which are considered most elegant, are cut very low behind, with scarce any shoulder-strap; a square front edged with a border of needlework; and shirt of the same material, embroidered round the throat and on the front, in form of a triangle.

Trinkets continue without any material alteration since our last, except that the pigeon brooch (which still prevails) is now formed of a sort of composition resembling the plumage of the bird.

Dress shoes are chiefly white, and invariably of satin or kid. With white dresses we have seen a few fawn coloured and melbourn brown, which were singularly neat. All dress shoes are now finished with twists of gold, silver, or bugles. Walking shoes are mostly made high, and tied or faced up the in-step.

White kid, Ljmerick, or York tan, are the only gloves which can be worn consistently in full or evening dress; on other occasions the selection is optional. The prevailing colours for the season are fawn-colour, bright morone, silver-grey and pink.