Description of an English Dinner & Rout

Description of Evening Entertainments in Great Britain from

Historical and Literary Tour of a Foreigner in England and Scotland (1825) by Joseph Jean M.C. Amedee Pichcot

Vol. 1 pages 169-183

To Madame Saint G------

MADAME,

. . . .

I will give you an account of three London dinners and a rout which I have attended. I made my debut at the house of a baronet, Sir Francis L-----, who enjoys an income of 5000l. a year. The English baronet holds a middle rank between a nobleman and a commoner.

. . . .

At six o’clock in the evening I knocked at Sir Francis’s door, and could not help admiring the polish of the brass knocker before I let it fall from my hand. I also observed the name of the master of the house and his title of baronet engraved on the brass plate, which is a very general practice in London. . . . The footman who opened answered my question very respectfully, took my hat into a room on my right, and then transferred me, as it were, to one of his fellow-servants, who ushered me up to the drawing-room door, where he announced Doctor P-----, pronouncing my name in rather an odd way. I made but a slight bow, by way of imitating the English dignity, and Sir Francis gravely advanced towards me, holding out his hand and performing the brief ceremony of salutation, by cordially shaking mine. After a few trifling questions and short replies, he proposed introducing me to his lady, and afterwards to two of his friends. I accepted his offer the more readily, in hopes of being introduced to his two daughters whom I observed sitting by their mother’s side. The slight glance I took of them on my entrance had produced a very favourable impression on me but a formal introduction is indispensable here to enable any person to address another. I made a low bow to Lady L----, who received me with a very laconic speech and a very gracious smile. . . . Alas! Whether from forgetfulness, paternal discretion, or English distrust, I know not, but Sir Francis contented himself with presenting me to his lady and his two friends, and I despaired of being authorised that evening to utter a single syllable to either of his daughters, or three other ladies who were of the party. It was not long before we went downstairs to the dining-parlor. I offered my arm to the lady, who I afterwards found, was called Miss Clara and you will smile when I tell you, that I should have cautiously avoided entering into conversation with her, had not she, guessing no doubt the cause of my embarrassment, charitably opened the discourse by asking me how long I had been from Paris. Her question, which was delivered in good French, but with an air of timidity, inspired me with confidence. However, we had already arrived at the bottom of the staircase, and I had only time to reply without asking any question in my turn, when we were separated. I was placed between Lady L----- and Mr. John F-----, one of the guests with whom I was authorized to exchange a few words. There was so little difference between Sir Francis’s dinner and those of Paris, that I shall not describe it to you. I shall, however, bring home, for the use of your cook, the receipts for a pudding, and one or two other real English dishes. During the courses some cool French wines were introduced after that, Port, Sherry, and Madeira which is drank without being mixed with water. You may, if you please, quench your thirst with a draught of ale or table beer of a very agreeable flavour. These beverages are asked for separately; but, as for the wine, you must wait, at least for the first glass, till the master of the house, or your neighbour invite you to drink with him, and which it would not be considered polite to decline. The bottle is sent to you, you fill your glass, and make a slight inclination of your head before you taste it. You then challenge your neighbours in your turn, and are accepted with the same formality. Those libations are continued until the arrival of what may be termed the first desert, in which cheese is frequently brought to the table alone. The cloth is then removed, and the table is covered with different kinds of fruit from the garden and hot house. The challenges to take wine are now at an end but the bottles are circulated round the table, and stopped in their passage by each of the guests. The ladies do not forget that Noah planted the vine for their sex as well as for ours.

The ladies soon deserted the dinner table, and adjourned to the drawing-room to prepare tea. Hitherto conversation had been by no means general; each person had addressed himself only to his next neighbour, but no one had thought it proper to enter into a regular discussion on any particular subject or to engross the attention of the company by the narration of anecdotes. On the departure of the ladies, the gentlemen drew closer together, and the bottles were freely circulated. The conversation was maintained with greater ease and decision. At one moment it seemed even to grow warm. Politics were introduced, and a schism took place between the speakers. We had our ministerial and our opposition parties. Some made long winded speeches and others laconic replies. In short, we had a parliament in miniature but undisturbed by disorder or personality. The discussion was conducted with the cool dignity which Englishmen occasionally assume, particularly when they would reproach the French for not knowing how to sit still.

. . . .

About ten o’clock Sir Francis rose, and we followed him to the drawing-room.

We found the ladies seated round a table, ready to partake of the elemental tea. Miss L----, Sir Francis’s oldest daughter, was the Hebe who prepared the Chinese nectar. The offer of a cup was the first sentence I obtained from her pretty lips. I took several, and Miss Clara at length observed that I was half an Englishman. I did not let slip the opportunity which this observation afforded me of entering into conversation with her, and I took possession of a chair by her side. . . . I was, for a quarter of an hour, delighted with her wit and information. But conversational talent was not the only accomplishment Miss Clara possessed; she was soon summoned to the piano and sang an air from Tancredi with taste and correctness. . . . Almost all the other young ladies sang after MIss Clara. The gentlemen, with whimsical gravity, applauded what the half of them had not even listened to; for the company subdivided themselves into little groups, conversing together seriously and in a low tone of voice. This sort of aside conversation was only interrupted at intervals by an applauding nod or a laconic bravo.

. . . .

Thus then, I have given you a description of a London dinner and evening party.

I dined next day at the house of a citizen, which I found more dull than the other. I could have fancied myself at a quaker’s meeting. The dishes were fewer and there was no soup, a luxury however with which I could readily dispense for the English cooks put in pepper enough to calcine one’s palate. We did not remain so long at table as at Sir Francis L--- 's which was owing, I presume, to there being less variety of wines. The libations of tea were abundant, but what was extremely mortifying to your humble servant was that the party being smaller than that with which I dined on the preceding day, there was but one group formed in the drawing-room, and but one subject of conversation. This was supported by three old ladies who expatiated for two long hours on the profanation of the Sabbath in the towns of France.

In a visit which I afterwards paid to Lord T-----, I was not disappointed in the expectation I had formed of meeting with something more like French manners at his house; for the Aristocracy of England entertain a decided preference for Parisian customs. His lordship’s mansion is fitted up in a style of magnificence and his carriage . . . appeared to me of the most splendid description It may, perhaps, be said that the English nobility evince more splendour in their equipages, horses and liveries than in the decoration of their houses.

. . . .

I could have fancied myself in Paris during a great part of the dinner at Lord T’s. In the drawing-rooms which, in the latter part of the evening were very numerously filled, the ilusion might have been easily kept up.

Letter XXVI.

To the same.

You will doubtless ask me Madam what is meant by a rout? . . . . A rout is a large assemblage of fashionables. The lady of the house invites her friends a long time previously, so that the mob may be as great as possible. The avenues of the streets are filled with carriages; the stair-cases, landing places, and apartments are so crowded with visitors, coming and going, that you almost despair of ever reaching the principal drawing-room where the lady of the mansion lavishes her smiles on all who are fortunate enough to be carried so far in the stream. When, as they work their way out again, panting for breath, you hear them exclaim, “What a glorious evening!”--”What a delightful party!” Next morning they eagerly examine the columns of the newspapers, in search of the article headed Fashionable Parties, and happy the lady who finds among its valuable contents, a minute description of the dress she wore, written probably by her own hand or that of her milliner.

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The present period is the most brilliant throughout the whole year for the butterflies of fashion; and it is therefore, by way of distinction, termed “the season.” Every lady and gentleman of fashion is ready to risk suffocation at ten different routs in one evening.

. . . .

The remark of a celebrated female writer on German society may with justice be applied on this occasion to the English. “A part of their time,” says Madame de Stael, is lost in dressing, in a manner suitable to these great assemblies, part is lost in the street, part on the stair-case, and part during a three hours’ stay in the drawing-room; and it is impossible in these numerous companies to hear anything beyond the ordinary circle of conversation phrases. . . .”